The autonomous region of Asturias holds a special place in Spanish hearts. A victory here turned the tide against the Moorish invaders and signalled the beginning of the so-called ‘reconquista’, a key part of Spain’s foundational myth. It’s easy to see why this dramatic region proved so difficult to conquer – deep river gorges and towering mountains make for a formidable, and incredibly beautiful, hinterland which then drops away spectacularly to a picturesque coastline dotted with pretty painte